Through out history, there have been many ways to tan animal skins. This method is relatively easy compared to other methods like brain tanning or vegetable tanning, and is safer than more common methods of tanning that requiring gasoline, kerosene or battery acid. (Read the fine print when researching other methods). There are three main components to this method; salt curing, soaking/cleaning, and tanning.

 Salt Curing
As with most methods, salt curing is the first step. Here’s the materials you’ll need to begin this process:

• Sharp Knife
• Large flat work surface, like a sheet of plywood, and old table, etc.
• Non-Iodized salt – 1 lb of salt per 1 lb of hide

 Salt curing is an important step which needs to be done immediately after skinning. Once the hide is salt cured it can be safely frozen until you’re ready to tan it. Salt curing is necessary to dry the hide out, and to preserve it. Trim the hide carefully, focusing on clean smooth edges.

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 Lay the hide hair-side down on your work surface and spread the salt all over, rubbing it into the hide, paying special attention to the edges, wrinkles, etc. The hide must be completely covered – it is better to use too much salt, than too little salt. Let the hide sit like this for 2 – 3 days, or until the salt becomes wet. When this happens, repeat the salting process again. When the salt is saturated again, tilt your work surface so the liquid can drain away from the hide. You can also hang the hide to dry. When the hide is completely dry, (usually after 1 – 2 weeks) you can begin the soaking and cleaning process.

 Soaking and Cleaning

 This process includes cleaning and softening the hide by soaking it and removing the flesh. Here’s the materials you’ll need for this phase: 

• Nonmetallic container, a plastic garbage can works very well
• Large smooth board
• Scraping blade, an old lawnmower blade or hacksaw blade works well
• Borax or baking soda, you can get these at the grocery store
• Dishwashing soap, like Dawn, Palmolive, etc.
• Nonmetallic stirring stick or paddle
• Sharp, single-edge knife
• Needle and string, waxed dental floss works well

 Start by soaking the skin with clean, cool water in the plastic container. Change the water several times, and keep the skin soaking until it becomes soft. This can take a few hours or a few days. Over soaking can cause the hair to come loose, so keep a close eye on it.

When the skin softens, transfer it from the container to the large smooth board. (Wash out the container – you will be using it again.) Hold the skin tightly over the edge of the board, while pulling back and forth. You can also use your scraping tool to remove the tissue, but be careful not to rip or damage this hide. You will be scraping the skin again after another soak, so don’t go crazy here.

When the skin gets softer, put it back into the container with lukewarm water. Add 1 ounce of Borax or baking soda per gallon of water, and 1 tablespoon of dishwashing liquid per gallon. This helps to remove all the dirt and oil, and also helps to soften the skin. Stir the skin around in the container.

Transfer the skin back to the board and remove all traces of fat, tissue, etc. Holding the blade nearly flat to the skin and scraping works well. You may need to re-soak the skin another time or two, in the Borax/dishwashing soap mixture above.

When the skin is completely clean, rinse it thoroughly in lukewarm water, then gently squeeze out the excess water. Fix tears, rips, holes, etc. by carefully sewing them up.

 Tanning

This very old, tried and true, method of tanning works best for hides with hair or fur. Here’s the materials you will need:

• Nonmetallic container – you can use the same garbage can from above
• Smaller nonmetallic container
• Alum, included in the kit
• Washing soda (crystallized sodium carbonate, laundry section at grocery store)
• Salt, technical grade, included in the kit
• Scraping knife
• Board
• Brush
• Borax

Combine 1 pound of alum with 1 gallon of water in your larger container. In the smaller container combine 4 ounces of washing soda, ½ pound of salt, and ½ gallon of water. Stir until the washing soda is dissolved, then very slowly pour this mixture into the alum and water mixture. Keep stirring briskly while adding the mixture. The combined mixtures will foam up, so try not to let it overflow from the container.

Put the skin in the mixture and let it soak for 2 – 5 days, it will depend how thick the skin is. Leaving the skin in longer will not harm it, and it is better to leave it in longer than it is to remove it too early.

Mix 1 gallon of water with 1 ounce of Borax and rinse the hide with this mixture until it’s clean. Then rinse it again in cool clean water. When completely cleaned and rinsed, transfer the skin (hair side down) to the board and press the water out using a dull edge. Allow the skin to dry a little.
 

Finishing the Skin

 Here’s what you’ll need:

• Tanning oil, sulfated neatsfoot oil, or fat liquor
• Household ammonia
• Sheet of plywood
• #6 finish nails
• Sanding block
• Paintbrush
• Sheet of plastic
• Electric fan
• Bran, cornmeal, or hardwood sawdust
• Comb or brush

Combine 3 ½ ounces of neatsfoot oil, 3 ½ ounces of warm water, and 1 ounce of household ammonia. These measurements are based on a ten pound deer skin. You may need to adjust the amounts depending on the size of your skin.

Using the paintbrush, start applying the solution to the skin. Make sure it is spread evenly, and keep applying until half of the solution has been used. Leave the skin alone for ½ hour, then apply the rest of the solution in the same way. Cover the skin with the plastic sheet and let it stand overnight.

Next, remove the plastic and hang the skin (hair side out) over a rod, or sawhorse. Plug in the fan and let it blow on the hide to help t to dry. When the hair is dry, but the flesh side is still moist, nail the hide (flesh side up) to the plywood board. Space your nails about 6” apart, around the hide, and about ½” from the edge. Slightly stretch the hide as you’re nailing it.

When the skin is almost dry take it off the plywood and start stretching it, by hand. Also, work the hide, back and forth, over the back of a chair, the edge of a board, etc. This process is to soften the hide. You may want to do this process several times while the skin is still drying out. You can also dampen the skin, all over, and rework it. Just remember, once the skin has completely dried you can no longer try to soften it.

Clean the hide by tumbling in warm, dry sawdust, cornmeal, or bran. Remove the particles by using a comb or brush, and also by gently shaking or beating. You can also use the sanding block to smooth and soften the finish on the flesh side.

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